Category: TRAVEL

My Favorite City in Georgia: Savannah

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Washing cars, babysitting, and selling homemade lasagnas, flans, cookies, and chicken. That’s how 12-year-old Cristina paid for her first trip to Savannah, Georgia with her dear Girls Scout troop 133 from San Juan, Puerto Rico. I had the privilege of doing my crossing from Junior to Cadette in the same building where the Girls Scouts founder, Juliette Gordon Low, grew up. While I don’t remember everything from that trip, I remember it being a special place and it remained as such in my heart for years.

Flash forward to today and I am now lucky to live only a 4-hour drive away from this beautiful city. I made my grand return last year for my birthday and since then, I’ve been back two more times. I can’t get enough of this city.

I am excited to share with you what I’ve explored, what we’ve discovered, and what I’ve yet to encounter.

Where to stay in Savannah

Savannah is super walkable so bring comfortable shoes and get ready to explore. I switched back and forth between sandals and my converse and had zero issues. Due to its walkability, where you stay matters. Thankfully, Savannah has plenty of options.

Planters Inn – We stayed here for my birthday and the location was perfect, right next to The Olde Pink House. I found it to fit well within our budget and didn’t have any complaints.

The Perry Lane Hotel – If you have a loftier budget, you should check out The Perry Lane Hotel. I have not stayed there but their bars are great and their interiors look stunning. From The Peregrin on the rooftop to The Wayward downstairs on their building across the street, you’ll find amazing cocktails and even some yummy snacks.

The Grant by Black Swan AirBnb – Short-term homestays are another solid option and this one was in a fantastic location. We were right in the heart of all the action and were able to easily walk in and out of the apartment as needed. It is right across the street from Rise Southern Biscuits & Righteous Chicken which was perfect for breakfast after a fun night out (nothing helps a hangover quite like a fried chicken biscuit sandwich with fountain diet coke). This Airbnb does not include parking so if you have a car you will have to find street parking or a parking deck.

VRBO by Lucky Savannah – A little further out but still within the historic district, this spot was available for a last-minute summer visit. Street parking was a lot easier here compared to the previous Airbnb option. This property is dog friendly if you are interested in bringing your pup!

Where to eat & drink in Savannah

Here’s a list of all the places we visited last year. The classifications of dinner, lunch, etc. are based on my experience so I definitely encourage you to check each spot to see what else they offer! I highly recommend you make reservations for dinner. Places like The Olde Pink House, for example, book well out in advance.

I also included a list of the spots I still have to try in case you want to check them out too. You can find them at the end of this post.

Dinner

praline basket dessert at The Olde Pink House
The Olde Pink House
Husk

Husk – I had been to the Husk in Greenville, South Carolina for brunch but going to the Husk for dinner was a totally different experience. In fact, without really trying, we ended up having dinner there on all three of our visits last year. The food is consistently delicious, even as the menu changes seasonally. I also was able to taste some delicious Georgia oysters. Yes, you read that right, apparently, Georgia has good oysters if you know where to search! Needless to say, this opened up a very interesting dinner conversation with my husband.

The Olde Pink House – I highly recommend you make a reservation ahead of time so you can eat inside the historical (and allegedly haunted) house. I noticed the menu is the same in the other parts of the restaurant but dining in the main room definitely adds a special touch. Their food was delicious but what really makes the place is the history and ambiance. The downstairs bar had a great vibe and live music playing, perfect for sipping an old fashion or dirty martini.  

Cotton & Rye – This restaurant is a little ways out from the heart of the historic district but still walkable if you are feeling up for it. Pro tip: If there’s a wait, put your name down and walk two blocks up to Tacos + Tequila for a margarita while you wait.

Coco & Moss – This spot was recommended for sushi. My friend and I went there for lunch and gravitated toward their bowl options and wow, they were delicious. I definitely want to go back and try their sushi though!

Cha Bella – This one is lower on my list but still wanted to include it as it’s a solid option if a lot of the other popular spots are booked. I really enjoyed their gnocchi.

Vic’s on The River – As you may have guessed by the name, this is one of the nicer spots on the river. I actually got stuck on a work call and was not able to make lunch here but my friends went and said it was nice. She said the fried green tomatoes were mediocre but the rest was good. I feel like it’s probably overrated due to its great location by the river.

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Lunch / Brunch / Baked Goods

lunch at Coco & Moss
brunch at Collins Quarter
goodies from The Little Crown by Pie Society
Good Morning Mac & Cheese from Common
lunch at The Crab Shack
tea time at the Gryphon

Gryphon Tea Room – If you know me, you know I love a nice high tea experience. Champagne, little bites with explosive flavors, unique tea selections, and cute tea cups… what is there not to like? While some of the tea rooms that appeared in popular Savannah articles were not open anymore, the Gryphon did not disappoint. Located in a beautiful historical building and operated by SCAD, it was the perfect way to spend my birthday afternoon.

The Public Kitchen & Bar – We walked in for lunch and had a great experience. My husband loved his burger and I found my salad super refreshing.

The Crab Shack – Although this is technically in Tybee Island (~25 minutes away from Savannah), I still wanted to include it on this list. It’s such a fun spot to get seafood –it truly lives up to its name. I loved sitting outside and the waiter even showed me how to properly eat a crawfish. Cool experience but will likely not order them again. Too much work for little meat.

Collins Quarter – This Australian Café was great for brunch. We sat outside and enjoyed people (dog) watching while sharing several breakfast plates. Pro tip: schedule a morning tour of the Juliet Gordon Low Birthplace and then cross the street for brunch at Collins Quarter.

Common – The brunch here was spectacular. If you go, please order their Good Morning Mac & Cheese. Your stomach may regret it but your happy soul never will.

Debi’s Restaurant – We stumbled here after trying to get breakfast at B. Matthews Eatery and failing miserably. To be fair, I think we were the last couple seated at Debi’s before a rush of people came through. A simple, homey feel with great food. I had their special which was some sort of lobster omelette and it was delicious.

The Paris Market – This charming boutique has a cute little café perfect for enjoying your coffee with a delicious baked good. I also found some unique gifts while browsing through the store.

Rise Southern Biscuits & Righteous Chicken – As mentioned above, this spot was right across the street from one of the Airbnbs we stayed in and it was clutch. Fast and delicious, do yourself a favor and try their righteous chicken.

The Little Crown by Pie Society – This spot sells, you guessed it, pies! While I did not grow up with pies, I feel like the musical Waitress really helped me fall in love with these tasty dishes. Their pies did not disappoint. Most orders are made to-go but they do have a few seating options on the back if you want to eat it on the spot.

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Drinks

sunset drinks by the Savannah river
cocktails at the Peregrin rooftop
The Mansion on Forsyth Park

The Peregrin & The Wayward – Both spots are part of The Perry Lane hotel and their cocktails are fantastic. Check out The Peregrin for sunset rooftop cocktails and then go down to The Wayward for a nightcap. Don’t miss the side room with a couple of arcade games if you are feeling playful.

Mint to Be Mojito – Go here for some empanadas and you guessed it, mojitos! Stay for the surprise in the back. Warning, there may be some dancing involved for access. 

Bösendorfer Lounge at The Mansion on Forsyth Park – We first sort of stumbled into this bar after strolling down Forsyth Park. Both times we had no issues finding a post and getting a drink before walking over to whatever was our next destination. I’ve heard good things about the hotel’s restaurant, 700 Drayton, but have yet to try it.

Myrtle & Rose – This cute rooftop garden is a must when you are strolling down by the river. I can’t vouch for the food or drinks but the view alone makes it worth it.

What to do in Savannah

Contrary to what this blog post may portray, there is more to do in Savannah besides eating. 😉 

The Juliet Gordon Low Birthplace
The Prohibition Museum
Haunted Pub Crawl with Spooky Steve
Good times at the pedal pub

River Street – You need to make your way down to River Street and stroll by the river to your heart’s content. As I mentioned above, there are several cool rooftop spots that will give you great views, especially at sunset.

Forsyth Park – After exploring River Street and all its quirks, make your way down to Forsyth Park through Bull Street. You’ll stumble upon a lot of cute little shops along the way. Depending on the weather, you will likely see plenty of local artists in the park showcasing their unique work. I still regret not buying a painting of Forrest Gump sitting on a bench with Pikachu.

Juliet Gordon Low Birthplace – Whether you were a Girl Scout or not, I definitely recommend visiting the birthplace of Juliet Low, the founder of the Girl Scouts in the US. You don’t need to be familiarized with the scouting movement to appreciate the history and stories of the house and its past inhabitants. I recommend you check out their site before you visit as tours were by appointment only last year. 

Prohibition Museum – I am not gonna lie, from first glance I thought the Prohibition Museum was going to be super cheesy. To my surprise, however, I ended up learning a ton! From the loss of tax revenue to the hoops people jumped through to get some sort of alcohol, there are some twisted historical facts you’ll see on display. I definitely recommend a visit. We were easily able to walk in during the day on a Friday and just get our tickets at the door.

Pedal Pub – I know a lot of cities now have this (heck, I saw one in Augusta, GA!) but I have to tell you, it was a blast. I now have done this twice in Savannah, once for my friend’s birthday (more bachelorette vibes) and once with a couple of friends (more chill). Both times were a blast and given Savannah’s open container laws, it’s a super seamless transition from pedal pub to bar. The pedal pub is a great way to explore new bars and make note of what places you want to return to later. 

Haunted Pub Crawl – I am a scaredy cat when it comes to horror movies, ghost stories, etc. but I figured when in Savannah, let’s do a ghost tour! I left the research for this in the hands of my husband and he booked us what ended up being a fantastic tour. If you are interested in a ghost pub crawl, you have to go with Spooky Steve. Not only did we visit a variety of bars all over historic Savannah, but his storytelling is also excellent. I even ended up learning a little bit of history in the process!

Still on my list…

There’s always a next time, right? Anything I should add?

Leopold’s Ice cream

The Grey

700 Drayton Restaurant

Common Thread

Treylor Park

B. Matthew’s Eatery

Hitch

Bull Street Taco

St. Neo’s Brasserie

Rancho Alegre

Emporium Kitchen & Wine Market

Garibaldi’s

Flock to the Wok

Sorry Charlie’s Oyster Bar

Alleycat Lounge

Artillery Bar

Sting Ray’s Seafodd (Tybee Island)

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I hope you find this post helpful! I love Savannah and want more people to experience the magic of this city. What are your favorite spots in Savannah?

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Visiting Jekyll Island, Georgia [Roadtrip from Atlanta!] 

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Beautiful trees surrounding a walking pathway in Jekyll Island

I can not tell you how excited I am to write this blog post. Our recent trip to Jekyll Island is the first trip since the pandemic started that truly feels like we explored a new area. I had forgotten how much I love that feeling! 

We had done a cabin and a beach house, but those trips were more about the area around our rental and less about exploring. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good secluded trip, especially when in a global pandemic. Still, it was nice to wander around the little wild piece of paradise that is Jekyll Island. The high sixties and low seventies temperatures in early May allowed this to be the perfect, uncrowded getaway… and it was only about a 5+ hour drive from Atlanta!

We really enjoyed our getaway. I am sharing the details of our mini adventure in case you are looking for inspiration for upcoming trips!

Man walks alone in the beach during a beautiful day without any clouds in the blue sky

Let’s start with where to stay in Jekyll Island.

We chose to stay at a VRBO property with walking access to the beach. Our place was modest, but it had everything we needed. Honestly, there’s so much to do outdoors that you can go this simple route and save money on accommodations. Everything is easy to access with a bike, so if you are bringing your bike or planning to rent bikes, you can consider a rental a little bit further from the beach. More on bikes further down!  

There are also some great hotel and resort options on the island, including options with fun pool areas if you plan to travel with kids (or you just love a good pool slide). Out of the list, The Jekyll Island Club Resort is the most iconic spot. This resort was formerly the exclusive Jekyll Island Club that hosted prominent families from the north back in the day and is now a luxury historic resort hotel. I would save staying at this spot for a special occasion or when you are ready to partake in all of the resort activities to truly make it worth it. What’s cool is that you can still visit the resort, even if you are not a guest. 

Where you stay can really dictate your vibe, so think about it: what do you want to get out of your trip to Jekyll Island? I don’t think there is a wrong answer!

Now, let’s talk about food.

Dinner plate with salmon on top of a white sauce pasta

Regardless of where you end up staying, I totally recommend you do drinks or dinner at The Wharf. At the moment of our visit, they were only taking reservations for guests of the Jekyll Island Club Resort (where the restaurant is located). Still, we got there early and just waited for a table outside. Waiting 1+ hour for a table out on the deck, a drink in hand, and a beautiful view ahead is not too shabby! The sunset views made it absolutely worth it and extra special, as it was our anniversary dinner (woo). 

Colorful sunset over Jekyll Island captured from The Wharf restaurant
sunset view from The Wharf

Not only was I feeling grateful to be able to celebrate another year of marriage, I was also extremely aware that we were outside in a beautiful setting, enjoying a delicious dinner and live music. I couldn’t even remember the last time we were in a similar scenario, and the blessing of the moment was not lost on me. 

Lunch plate ordered at Zachry's Riverhouse restaurant including: grilled shrimp, buttered potatoes and lima beans with bacon
lunch at Zachry’s Riverhouse… excellent!

I was expecting good seafood on this trip since you’re by the coast, but I hadn’t given much thought to what specific type of seafood was awaiting. Turns out, Georgia Wild Shrimp are pretty unique and quite delicious. We went to Zachry’s Riverhouse for lunch, and I FEASTED. They also have a nice outdoor seating area. Even though we were there for lunch, I can assume they have an excellent view of sunsets based on their location.

Two cups of margarita on the rocks from Tortuga Jacks, overlooking an ocean view

Another cool spot was Tortuga Jacks. In my opinion, their food was average, but the location and views make the spot worth it (Brian wants to make it clear that he really enjoyed the food). They are conveniently located along the bike path (as most places are), so we had some fun biking in and out. The spot reminded me of being in Rincón, Puerto Rico, with those low-key beach vibes (I was just missing the Kaplash empanadas, IYKYK). They also have a great bottomless mimosas deal on Sundays (only $8!).

Bikes are a must!

Empty road surrounded by tall, green trees and only one biker on the road, biking ahead

If you come to Jekyll Island and don’t bike, you will miss a big part of what makes this place so unique. The island is wrapped in bike trails, so you can basically get anywhere on a bike. I had missed biking SO much, especially biking as a casual mode of transportation and not a workout you are diligently tracking on your Apple watch.

We decided not to bring our own bikes because we did not feel too confident about our bike rack withstanding a 5 hours+ road trip and instead rented bikes for the weekend. This is a solid option, but I was not a big fan of the bikes we got (which seem to be the type that is widely available for rent across the island). Sure, they can get you from point A to point B, but I wanted to be more comfortable looping around the island, about a 25-mile ride. 

Jekyll Island’s rich history (pun intended)

To be honest, I had never heard of Jekyll Island until we saw Jekyll Island Brewing in Alpharetta (I still need to figure out the connection there). We were researching beaches to drive to from Atlanta, and Jekyll Island came up as one of the options. We really didn’t have much other knowledge to go off from.

One of the first things I heard about the island, as I set out to learn more about it before our arrival, was that it used to be the playground of the wealthy socialites from the north. When you arrive on the island, you also see a big sign that says “Jekyll Island, Established in 1947.” 

[ Side note: I found it a little amusing that our last trip before the pandemic was to The Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina, as Jekyll Island used to host some of the same family members. We also went to Newport, Rhode Island a while back, so it was interesting to patch up some of what we had learned in our previous trips with what we uncovered at Jekyll Island. Look at us, so bougie. ]

My ignorant self assumed that the Vanderbilts, Rockerfellers, J.P. Morgans, and those of the like, had found this empty island and saw in it an opportunity to set one of their retreat locations in the south. 

As we have come to learn, nothing is as simple as it initially sounds. During our trip, we learned that Jekyll Island was so much more before it did end up becoming a playground for the rich.

I totally recommend visiting the Mosaic Jekyll Island Museum. There, we learned of the critical pieces of history that are not usually shared when people talk about Jekyll Island. In the museum, you can learn about the first known habitants of the island way back before any European colonizers arrived at the shore or the illegal landing of the ship The Wanderer with 465 slaves from Africa, fifty years after the importation of slaves to the United States had been prohibited. We didn’t have time to visit the Wanderer Memory Trail, but it’s definitely on my list when we return. All this history got me thinking about the importance of getting to know more about your vacation spot and taking the time to go deeper than the basics that are sold to you when it comes to a destination. 

Another great learning experience was visiting Georgia Sea Turtle Center: Georgia’s only sea turtle education and rehabilitation facility. Their preservation efforts are so important, and their center does offer a lot of education opportunities. This is also an excellent stop for a visit with kids. It helps instill the importance of conservation and taking care of the planet we live on. Another fun activity for kids (or Brian) is the Jekyll Island Miniature Golf. We also enjoyed horseback riding in Driftwood Beach.

two women riding two different horses on the beach, the ocean to the left and the sand to the right.

With only four days on the island, we know we barely scratched the surface. Jekyll may seem like a small island, but there is surprisingly a lot to do. We also want to explore the other islands part of the Golden Isles and Cumberland Island (which I always call Cucumber Island by mistake)… all for a future visit!

Have you been to Jekyll Island or any of the islands off the coast of Georgia? Any recommendations for future visits? Let me know in the comments!

orange, pink and blue sunset at Jekyll Island

Staying at The Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina

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Biltmore Estate Visit Asheville North Carolina Getaway

Little did I know my birthday getaway back in early March would be the last “normal” outing before the pandemic hit and everything got flipped upside down. We really had no idea what was coming. I say this to acknowledge that I feel incredibly lucky and thankful to have been able to experience such a wonderful birthday.

Although this post is not about the pandemic, our new reality is inevitably sprinkled into this narrative in one way or another. Sure, this trip happened before it all went down but writing about it now, I am reliving the memories and I can’t help but feel extremely grateful. So many little things we took for granted, breakfast buffet? Seems like such a luxury now.

Anyways, in this post I want to share more about my 48 hour stay at the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina. Remember, this is all from back in March so please visit their website for their latest updates.

Why Biltmore? Living in Atlanta, Asheville is only about 3:30 hours away without traffic which is not bad for a weekend getaway. For my birthday celebration, I wanted a mix of a few things I love. We balanced out our fancy stay at the Biltmore with a night in Asheville for breweries and bbq… it was perfect.

Where to stay in The Biltmore Estate? There are actually a few options for lodging, the most popular seem to be The Village Hotel and The Inn. We stayed at The Inn because it was in the same building as the main restaurant and from what I read, it had a more upscale vibe which was perfect for our celebration. I don’t think you can go wrong with either. They also provide a shuttle that takes you around all the locations within the estate, making it super easy and convenient.

Touring the Biltmore Estate

Biltmore Estate Visit Asheville North Carolina GetawayBiltmore Estate Visit Asheville North Carolina GetawayBiltmore Estate Visit Asheville North Carolina Getaway

The Biltmore House is quite fascinating. They claim it’s actually America’s largest home and with 65 fireplaces, I don’t doubt it. They offer a self-guided tour which I think does a good job describing what it was like when the house was being lived in. They added layers of history from the outside world to make it a well-rounded journey. I also loved the connection to the mansions in Newport, Rhode Island.

High Tea

High Tea Biltmore Estate Asheville North Carolina GetwawayHigh Tea Biltmore Estate Asheville North Carolina GetwawayHigh Tea Biltmore Estate Asheville North Carolina GetwawayHigh Tea Biltmore Estate Asheville North Carolina Getwaway20200305_145825_OriginalHigh Tea Biltmore Estate Asheville North Carolina Getwaway

As someone who grew up in Puerto Rico, high tea was not really a thing. When I was introduced to it a couple of years ago, however, I fell in love. I enjoy trying all these wonderful tiny bites, the tea is always excellent and the whole idea of taking a break in the afternoon to enjoy the little things is just about perfect. I must admit I was slightly disappointed with the location for high tea at the Biltmore. I had this idea in my head that we would be having tea at the actual Biltmore House but it’s actually served at the same restaurant where we had breakfast and dinner at The Inn. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a really nice room, just different from what I was imagining. The rest of the experience, however, did not disappoint. The photo above may look like an upside down ice cream cone but it was actually goat cheese with a balsamic glaze. Every bite was an adventure.

Wine Tasting

Winery Biltmore Estate Asheville North Carolina Getwaway

I’m not going to lie, the fact that there is a winery at the Biltmore was a major factor in our decision to come visit. They offer a a generous free tasting with your visit. We had to wait in line but once it was our turn our server was super attentive and explained everything we were tasting (which we got to choose too!). In addition to the free tasting, we also booked one of their wine tours. At our tour, we learned more about the history of the winery and got to go behind the scenes to learn more about the process. At the end of the tour you also get to do a round of tasting (more wine!).

More on Food

We started our stay with dinner at the Library Lounge. The live piano music, velvet decor and crackling fireplace transported you to another era, setting the stage for the rest of our visit. As always, wine and cheese were involved.

happy birthday at the Biltmore estate

We went to the The Dining Room for my birthday dinner and each course was carefully paired with a different selection of the Biltmore wines. Same as the rest of our visit, service was truly great.

I totally recommend a visit to The Biltmore Estate, whether it’s for a stay or just for the day. In addition to our stay at the Biltmore, we also stayed a night in the city of Asheville and got to ho around different breweries. The bow that tied everything up perfectly was our visit to Looking Glass Creamery. If you are a cheese lover like me, you should definitely give them a visit next time you are in the area. History, wine, cheese, high tea and a breakfast buffet… what more can a girl ask for?

Biltmore Estate Visit Asheville North Carolina Getaway

Have you visited The Biltmore Estate before? How was your experience?

Cheesemaking @ Asheville, North Carolina

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Looking Glass Creamery Asheville North Carolina Cheese Cristina Nogueras

About a year ago I listened to a Savor podcast episode about cheese in Asheville, NC and I just knew I had to make my way there to experience Looking Glass Creamery for myself! I know everyone raves about the breweries in Asheville (don’t get me wrong, they are great) but being the cheese lover that I am, I was most excited for the cheese. I didn’t know there was such a vibrant cheese community in Western North Carolina. I absolutely love and appreciate European cheeses but given the logistics and financial implications to get there from Atlanta, having local cheese adventures just a drive away is pretty sweet. From what I gathered, they respect the classic rules of cheesemaking but are not afraid to showcase creativity and make each cheese unique to their style.

Looking Glass Creamery Asheville North Carolina Cheese Cristina NoguerasLooking Glass Creamery Asheville North Carolina Cheese Cristina NoguerasLooking Glass Creamery Asheville North Carolina Cheese Cristina Nogueras

LGC has grown and now has two locations: a farm and store in Columbus and The Cheese Shop in Fairview (right outside of Asheville, where we went). This cute little farm house you see was their original creamery and now the second floor, or attic, is a cozy seating space where you can find super interesting cheese books to browse while you wait for your magnificent board! They also serve wine but mind you, we were there at 11:00 am when they opened and weren’t ready for that just yet. (Yes, we had a cheeseboard for breakfast, thank you very much.)

The cheese was absolutely delicious (not surprising!) and each variety had something special to offer. The sides were also fresh and flavorful, including some pickled beet which sounded weird but paired really well with the more sharp cheeses, in my opinion. I came home with some of their fromage blanc and sour cherry jam with plans of spreading those babies out on some crackers very soon!

Can we take a moment to talk about jams? Maybe my Puerto Rican upbringing did not expose me to jams as much, or maybe it did and I was just a picky eater then, but my goodness, they are wonderful! I have always been a butter-on-my-bread kind of person and never really gave jams a chance but lately, however, I have been trying them more and wow. During our time in Asheville alone I tried like 5 different, wonderful jams, all locally made. I know this may sound lame for some of you (Duh, Cristina, where have you been living?) but to me this is extremely exciting. So exciting, in fact, that I came home with two new jars of homemade jam. I now need to learn how to make biscuits or scones from scratch and we will be golden. Also, news flash for me: jams, jellies and marmalades are not all the same thing. About to fall on that Wikipedia rabbit hole real soon…

Anyways, cheese is great and local cheesemakers are cool.

Have you visited any cheesemakers in the US? Let me know where!

Looking Glass Creamery Asheville North Carolina Cheese Cristina Nogueras

How I Found The Best Tuna Tartare and Other Portuguese Tales [Vol. 3: Lisboa]

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Sintra Portugal Cristina Nogueras

It may have taken me over a year to do it, but I am finally completing my Portugal series!

If you missed my earlier posts, here’s my post about the beautiful Porto and the great region of Douro. Ok, let’s do this!

Lisbon Lisboa Portugal Cristina Nogueras

What better way to learn the history from a city than with a light show projected on the ruins of a monastery? The Lisbon Under The Stars show was only in town for a limited amount of time, but I really hope other places around the world are following suit and doing similar presentations as they are such a rich experience. We sat in the middle of these ruins, under the stars… it was magical.

Lisbon Lisboa Portugal Cristina Nogueras Time Out Market Lisbon Tuna Tartare

Time Out Market Lisbon

During this trip I had, what I still consider the best tuna tartare I’ve ever tasted, and still have dreams about it. It was from the Tartar-ia booth if you want to go taste it and tell me all about your experience!

It was a busy hall, tourists everywhere but in spite of my hate for crowds and overly touristy spots, I really enjoyed it. There is one now in New York City too, if you want to explore it (overpriced, in my opinion, but great views). For the one in Lisbon, you had to camp out a little bit in order to get a table but once you did, you were set. There are SO many good things to try that you can spend hours eating and drinking from different renowned places without having to leave the hall. Definitely, recommend stopping here if you don’t have a lot of time to explore Lisbon, but want to have a good food variety. 

I also took the opportunity in Time Out Market to purchase even more canned fish selections from a local shop. No regrets. Seriously, canned fish from Portugal > any other canned fish. 

Lisbon Lisboa Portugal Cristina Nogueras

More food

Unlike other places in Portugal where we were able to make reservations the day of or just walk into excellent restaurants, I recommend you plan some special dinners ahead of time and make reservations. We, unfortunately, were not able to try some places on my list because of that same reason. Thankfully, Lisboa is full of culinary wonders and I still had an incredible experience. I did not write down every place we visited (sorry!) but I recommend you ask locals about their favorite places (your hotel receptionist, Airbnb host or random person at a bar!). 

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Our first night, we had a delicious dinner at Taberna da Rua das Flores, a small but cozy restaurant. They had a curated selection of small plates and I let the waitress recommend the best options for us. These crabs in steamed buns were absolutely amazing. We also had a goat cheese dessert that sounded kind of weird (not that common to have goat cheese in a dessert for me) but was actually really good! We did not have reservations and were able to just walk right in for an early dinner. 

Pasteis de nata fabrica da nata food Lisbon Lisboa Portugal Cristina Nogueras

Of course, we had to try the famous pastéis de nata. We may or may not have had these for breakfast every single day in Lisboa. 🙂 We did not make it to Pastéis de Belem for the “authentic” ones but these ones from Fábrica da Nata were honestly really good (and right next to our hotel). It’s great to go to the “original” or “popular” spots but a lot of times when traveling, it’s about striking a balance between what you are told and what you want to discover on your own.

Sintra Portugal Cristina Nogueras

Sintra

If you go to Lisboa, Sintra is a must. I know of people going only for the morning, the whole day or even stay overnight. We ended up spending the day there and it was lovely. There are several transportation options but since there were 3 of us (hey, Lala!) and we were being lazy, we decided to Uber to and from Sintra. Not bad at all when you are splitting it.

Sintra Portugal Cristina NoguerasSintra Portugal Cristina Nogueras

Once in Sintra, we had the option to walk up all the way to the Palacio Nacional da Pena or choose from other methods of transportations. We were kind of winging it at this point and up for exploring, so we decided to walk all the way up… nobody really told us what this entailed. Let’s start by saying I was not quite wearing the best “hiking” gear. There were people rock climbing up this trail and I was wearing my white converse, jeans, and a cute top. It probably took us about 2 hours, but we made it. Barely. I would encourage you to explore your transportation options. 🙂 If you are not a big fan of crowds I would also encourage you to wake up super early and get there when it opens. 

Sintra Portugal Cristina Nogueras FoodSintra Portugal Cristina Nogueras Food

After exploring the palace and the Castelo dos Mouros, (crowds, crowds!) we were FAMISHED. We hopped on one of the little tuk-tuks and made our way down. Once back in town, we stumbled upon Tascantiga Sintra and had a feast for basically zero dollars. We ordered way more food than we could handle, but wow, it was the best reward after an unexpected hiking day. We basically lived on ham, cheese, olives, cod, and wine for our entire week in Portugal. My kind of diet, if you ask me.  

Lisboa Lisbon Portugal Cristina NoguerasIMG_0478

There is a LOT to explore in Lisboa, so much that in fact, we barely made a dent on the list we had compiled prior to arriving. We were in a chill, exploratory mood and did not want to rush any of the wonderful experiences we were having. Sure, sometimes it’s fun to rush through places and activities in order to cover more things on your list, but most times I believe that doing less with more focus and intention is more valuable and enjoyable that skimming your way through a wonderful city such as Lisboa.  

For next time though, and for your own considerations, here are some places we did not make it to. Have you been to any? What was your experience like?

Food & drinks

To do & explore

  • Belem Tower
  • Praca do Comercio
  • Sao Jorge Castle
  • Tram 28 to Alfama
  • Monastery of St. Jerome

* BONUS! *

We did go to some other places in Portugal besides Porto, Douro and Lisboa. I don’t think we spent enough time exploring for me to share full-on recommendations but still wanted to share my experience briefly, just for reference. 

Fátima – I was raised Catholic and went to Catholic school, so getting to see Fátima was truly special. We stopped there on our way from Douro to Albufeira. The day was gloomy so I don’t have great pictures, but it had a very solemn vibe. I had never seen people complete a pilgrimage so that was really impactful, especially the older folks that do so on their knees! Seeing such devotion and commitment in person is something truly special.

Albufeira Portugal Cristina NoguerasIMG_9844Albufeira Portugal Cristina Nogueras

Albufeira – If the Jersey Shore and Bourbon St. had a baby, it would likely be called Albufeira. It seems to be the place where all the Brits go for bachelor parties. Lots of fun, but not at all the “authentic, chill beach vibe” we were looking for. Still, we had a fun time, I mean, you are in a beach town in Portugal! I can’t wait to have the opportunity to return to the southern coast of Portugal for a proper vacation in such a beautiful area though!

I think that’s it! 🙂

Thanks for reading and let me know if you have any questions about my experience. You can follow me on Instagram @cristina.nogueras to check out my latest photos and more.

New York, I love you.

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Sunset on Manhattan

Today marks what would have been my 7th New York Anniversary. 7 years ago, on a day like today, I landed with my one-way ticket to JFK hoping for the best. I had no clue what was in store for me.

I left New York this past January and have not been able to gather my thoughts of what this has meant to me. To those close to me, you know that New York was sucking the life out of me, slowly but surely. No need to get into details here, we all know New York is expensive and demanding. As it was getting close to my last day in the city, I started seeing things differently, you may call it “graduation goggles”. The crowded trains suddenly felt poetic, the hustle and bustle felt energizing and little by little I started to notice the things I was going to miss. 

I used to compare New York City with a drug, you know it’s bad for you but you keep coming back for more. I expressed some of these thoughts during my 5th New York Anniversary post and I think you can sense in my words that I was about ready to go. New York City lifts you up so high, you are soaring, but then it can drop you so hard, the impact is undeniably sobering. I used to think that it drained you but it still felt so good but now I think you feel that way because you’ve forgotten what normal feels like. I danced with so many of these emotions for years. 

Now, New York City feels like an old lover. I know it was not perfect, there were certainly hardships along the way, but I choose to remember the good times and respect the bad times as they have made me who I am today. I go back and rejoice, feeling lucky to have called it mine for however long it lasted. Sure, there are many things I miss and maybe will always miss, but that’s ok. 

Thank you, New York. I believe there is strength in being able to thank someone, something, anything for the good it did, in spite of all the bad. A kind of broken beauty that requires patience and wisdom to be appreciated.

New York, I will always love you. 

How I fell in love with Portugal’s wine country and other Portuguese tales [Vol 2. Douro]

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cristina nogueras photography portugal douro

I had already shared how I was not expecting much on the wine front from Portugal before our visit. Shameful, I know. You may associate port wine with Porto but did you know that the grapes are actually harvested in the Douro region? In fact, if they are not from there, it’s not technically port wine. The process may slightly vary by the producer but in general, grapes are harvested and transported to Porto where they are stored for aging and eventually consumption. Also, there is a LOT more to this beautiful wine region than port wine, we tasted plenty of other varieties that were just absolutely wonderful.

For our trip, we decided to rent a car in order to travel through all of our stops:

Porto -> Douro -> Fatima -> Albufeira -> Lisboa

I 100% recommend renting a car if you can, as it not only gives you freedom from schedules but you can also explore at your own pace and change things up as you go if you so desire.

cristina nogueras photography portugal douro quinta nova

For our stay in Douro we stayed at Quinta Nova Nossa Senhora do Carmo, which you can see in this photo. When looking at where to stay in Douro, I saw plenty of gorgeous quintas in the region but I wanted to make sure we could stay in a quinta that offered wine tastings and actually had a vineyard. Our stay was short but wonderful. Due to time constraints, we actually did not leave the quinta once we got there and honestly have no regrets.

cristina nogueras photography portugal douro quinta nova wine and cheese vacation

We began our stay with a wonderful spread of ham and cheese and started tasting some of the wonderful selections from Quinta Nova right away. Their reserva was one of our favorites and definitely affordable considering the quality and taste, says the girl that is happy with a $10 bottle of wine at the liquor store, but you get it. 🙂

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My favorite part was walking through the vineyards, just me and Brian. There was not another soul in sight and the weather was absolutely perfect, not too hot or too cold. This region is truly a beauty and the landscape is breathtaking, unlike anything I had seen before. It’s also very calm, the kind of vibes you have to stop for and take a moment to really take it in because it’s a magical experience.

cristina nogueras photography portugal douro quinta nova

Quinta Nova offers a delicious dinner with a chef’s menu and of course, dedicated wine pairings. Each course was a unique experience and everything was purely exquisite. Dinner wouldn’t have been completed without an excellent dessert and of course, port wine.

cristina nogueras photography portugal douro quinta novacristina nogueras photography portugal douro quinta nova

The breakfast selection the next day was also delicious but the best part was enjoying it all with a morning view. I mean, how often do we allow ourselves to not only enjoy breakfast time but enjoy it with this kind of view. Good coffee, good food and knowing that the day can only get better. That’s what vacation should feel like.

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You can never have enough of something wonderful, right? I would have loved to stay longer in this region and explore further. If you have the time, definitely recommend you explore other quintas and even take a boat through the river. Even if you are tight for time and can’t stay for the night, Douro is not far from Porto and you can do a day trip to get a taste of the magic (it’s only a little over an hour drive).

Stay tuned for more of my Portugal series and feel free to message me if you are planning to visit and have any questions about my experiences. 🙂

cristina nogueras photography portugal douro quinta nova

How I fell in love with canned fish and other Portuguese tales [Vol. I: Porto]

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I want to start this post by apologizing to Portugal.

I must admit, Portugal was our second choice for a trip that for months we had been envisioning as a Greek adventure. I’m pretty sure Brian and I were talking about doing our one year anniversary in Greece when we were still in Thailand for our honeymoon. Disgusting, I know. Timing, flights and curiosity slowly led us to consider Portugal more and more. First it was going to be a second stop in our trip but as we uncovered all the potential we decided we were going to dive in completely and we are so glad we did. (Don’t worry Greece, I’m still coming for you!)

I will be doing a series for every stop we made in Portugal in order to truly make it justice. I will be sharing what we did but also, a lot of recommendations I collected before the trip (and during it) that we were not able to discover.

Let’s start with the wonder that is Porto. Jetlagged as we were and with some time before we could check into our Airbnb, we did not miss a beat and found ourselves having breakfast by theriver. We had no set plans, just a list of choices. What did we do? We propped ourselves outside a local restaurant, drank wine and watched the people walk by. To be fair, we did walk in the church of Saõ Francisco on the way and explored some of its barroque beauty.

Let me tell you, Portuguse wines are so underrated. Maybe it’s because I am not a sommelier but when I hear people rave about European wines, it’s always French, Italian and Spanish wines… but Portugal? Not so much or at all. Sure, we hear all about the wonder that is Porto (the wine) but I was pleasantly surprised to see (and taste) all the different varieties they have to offer.

For our first dinner in Portugal, we went to Wine Quay Bar. This was a place we had seen mentioned in various lists and I really liked that it brought together a lot of Portugal delicacies in a “tapas” style menu. The cheese, meats and olives were superb but oh my goodness… the bacalhau. Not sure how you feel about cod (bacalhau) but I grew up with my grandma’s Puerto Rican “bacalaitos” (cod fritters) and to me cod has always been associated with fried greatness that you should not have too often. Well, Portuguese have been doing it right all these years (sorry, grandma!). The cod we had here was soft and full of so much rich, yet delicate flavor. I don’t think my description can do it justice. 

I knew canned fish was a delicacy in Portugal and I was excited to try it but to be honest, I never expected to fall in love with it like I did. There are currently about 12 cans of different fish varieties in my kitchen. No day feels special enough for us to dig in just yet. Brian wants me to add that he was not a huge fan of the cod but was obsessed with the spicy tuna that they serve (also in a can). The saddest part is that I could not buy the exact cod they had at the restaurant because they ran out. The waitress was telling us about how cod is not as abundant as it used to be. There are issues with over fishing and people respecting sea borders. Really a shame since a lot of people, like them, have grounded their business around cod.

You really can’t go to Porto and not experience a Porto wine tasting. Like I said, we did not have set plans but for this, I recommend you do a little research and look to reserve beforehand. We were lucky to be able to walk in and just get a spot in Cockburn’s Port and had a great experience. First of all, I didn’t know port came in whites! Refreshing to start the tour with a port and tonic, even though I realized once more that I just don’t like tonic.

Did you know that port wine has about 20 % alcohol volume? You feel it. It’s good.

Porto (technically Gaia) houses all the port wines for aging but the grapes are actually harvested in the Douro Valley region. Just like champagne is not champagne if it’s not from Champagne, France – port wine is also only port wine if it comes from this region. Lucky us, Douro Valley was our next stop! More to come on that in an upcoming post.

So yes, this is a Francesinha (missing the fried egg on top). It’s a signature plate in Porto that I feel I have no authority to criticize. Essentially, this plate is available in almost every restaurant that serves Portuguese food but I was being such a brat that I didn’t want to order it if it wasn’t from the places “the internet” said are the best. The way our day ended up flowing, we were not near the famous Cafe Santiago when it was time to eat so Brian convinced me to let it go and just order it where we were. It was alright. Plot twist, we ended up having the best Francesinha in Lisbon from a restaurant with a chef from Porto. I will share more on that when I write about Lisbon!

The whole thing was so silly and has really got me thinking about the way I want to travel. I don’t want to miss out on the good stuff that other people have discovered but I also want to take my own chances and discover for myself  the wonders that are out there. We worry too much about what other’s have lived that sometimes we forget to make adventures of our own.

This was the case for our anniversary dinner. We tried to get reservations in some of the popular places but they were all full. We ended up walking by this small and cozy restaurant that was playing live Fado – exactly what I wanted for such a special evening. I was hesitant to trust our anniversary dinner in a restaurant that was unknown to us but Brian ignited the explorer in me and we went for it. I am so glad he did, as our dinner at Terreirinho Restaurant was the most special dinner of our entire trip. Who would have thought?

And that, my friends, was the view from our AirBnb. It was affordable and with a great location, here’s the link if you are interested!

Here are some other food spots we did not get to try but totally encourage you to consider. If you do end up going to Porto and trying some, let me know what you think!

Any Porto food recommendations you think I should add? Let me know!

You can see more from my Portugal travels on my Instagram. 🙂

[Dinner] Sorellina’s Twist On Some Classics

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Finally made it to Sorellina, a nice recently opened spot in Hoboken. Happy to report back that I was not disappointed! It was not too crowded, but then again, temperatures were below freezing so I would still recommend you check out Resy for a reservation, we had no issues.

We started off with some appetizers and if you know me, you know I can’t say “no” to burrata. In addition, we went for the roasted cauliflower and it was absolutely amazing. The charred onions and the breadcrumbs gave it the perfect crunch.

As for the main course, I went for the Cacio e Pepe Conchiglie. It’s not your average Cacio e Pepe as it has milk-braised pork and it features a different type of pasta. Still, I took a chance and it was very good. If you are craving Cacio e Pepe and are 100% set on it, order something else but if you appreciate what makes Cacio e Pepe amazing at the base and are open to exploring something different, go for it!

Brian went with the Bucatini Genovese and he was also very pleased although I must be honest and say he kept trying to eat off my plate. 🙂

Overall, I definitely want to go back and try different plates to keep tasting their unique flavors and fusions.

Have you been yet? Any recommendations?

[Lunch & Dinner] Charlie Bird

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If you know me, you know I have a slight obsession with Charlie Bird‘s farro salad. Why obsess over a salad, you ask? Because it’s delicious, fresh, intriguing and somewhat guilt-free.

Charlie Bird NYC Farro Salad Beaches & Brie

This salad helped me appreciate pistachios in a brand new way because YES, it has pistachios! The parmesan shavings on top just add another level of saltiness greatness, making each bite come to life a bit more.

I have yet to recreate this salad at home but NYT Cooking and All Day I Eat have some great ideas on how to start!

Charlie Bird Cacio e Pepe NYC restaurant Beaches & Brie

Another Charlie Bird favorite? Their Cacio e Pepe. Creamy but so good, I mean, just look at it! They also have a prix fix lunch menu during the week where you can get a small plate (think: farro salad)  AND a pasta for $32. Not super cheap, I know, but it’s worth treating yourself to a nice lunch if you are in the area, especially if it’s a nice day out and you can take advantage of their outdoor seating.

gnocchi Charlie Bird Beaches & Brie

The gnocchi is also another solid option. Try starting with the burrata option, another great pick, but NEVER as a substitution to the farro salad. Promise?

charlie bird burrata nyc beaches & brie